There’s something magical about the Azores. You’re surrounded by the Atlantic. You hop from one volcanic island to the next. Breathe in ocean air. Sip local wine as the sun sets. This archipelago of nine lush, rugged islands feels like the middle of nowhere—and everywhere. Before heading to Porto, my wife and I spent a few unforgettable days exploring Pico, Faial, and Terceira.
Day 1: Arrival in Pico – Windmills & Wine
We landed on Pico Island, a rugged paradise sculpted by volcanoes, layered in vineyards, and punctuated by red windmills that pop like storybook illustrations. After grabbing our rental car, we zipped along winding coastal roads and pulled into our first stop, lunch at Adega Açoriana – Tapas & Wine House. The veal burger absolutely hit the spot—juicy, rich, and served beside a shimmering natural ocean pool. If the sun had turned up the heat just a little, we would’ve plunged right in.
Nearby, there was one of Pico’s iconic red windmills. These charming structures dot the island, standing proudly against the lush green and volcanic black. With every twist and turn, new scenic overlooks demanded we stop, each more breathtaking than the last. It felt like a visual treasure hunt, and we soaked up every minute of it.
After checking into the hotel, we rolled into Adega Vitivinícola Lucas Lopes Amaral for a relaxed wine tasting. Pico’s vines grow low and wild in currais, stone-walled plots nestled into black lava rock. These basalt walls capture heat, deflect wind, and shape the island’s bold, mineral-rich wines. We also tried a spread of local cheeses, that we loved.
To cap off the day, we settled in for a standout culinary experience at Azores Wine Company. The “fun dining” tasting menu surprised and impressed with every course. My favorite? A beautifully prepared local fish with crispy potato cake that melted in my mouth. Each dish came with a wine pairing that deepened our appreciation for Pico’s unique landscape.
Day 2: Faial Day Trip – Scooters, Volcanoes & Sailor Bars
We woke early and boarded the 30-minute ferry from Pico to Faial for a day trip. Clear skies gave us a perfect view of Mount Pico rising above the clouds. Along the way, we passed Ilhéu Deitado, a long, flat islet that looked like a sleeping giant on the water.
Once we docked in Faial, we rented an electric scooter—slightly nerve-wracking on the narrow, bumpy roads but undeniably fun. Our first stop was the caldera rim hike, where we took in sweeping views of Faial’s lush volcanic crater. Even walking just part of the rim was unforgettable—expansive, green, and peaceful.
Next, we rode west to Capelinhos, where a 1958 eruption added new land to the island. The lighthouse now stands stranded inland, surrounded by black volcanic ash. Walking on that relatively new terrain was surreal. Then, we continued to Morro do Castelo Branco, a white volcanic cliff jutting dramatically into the Atlantic and home to nesting seabirds.
Later, we headed into Horta, Faial’s main town. At the marina, murals from visiting sailors added bursts of color to the harbor walls. We stopped for lunch at Peter Café Sport, a legendary sailor hangout and great place to people-watch.
As the day wound down, we returned to Pico and ended the evening at CellaBar, a cozy wine bar designed like a stone cellar. The sunset view over Faial Island is truly a sight to see.
Day 3: Vineyards, Volcano Fog, & Kayaking in Lajes
The day started with a glimpse of Mount Pico before it did what it always does, hide itself in clouds. The locals refer to Mount Pico as “shy” and they’re not wrong. When we left the hotel, we headed straight for some of the ancient lava-rock vineyards to walk around a bit and get up close with one of the red windmills.
We also made our way to the local wine museum where we learned about Dragon Trees, the funky red-berried trees whose sap once dyed everything crimson. That explained all the red accents we’d been noticing around the island.
We still hadn’t been up towards Mount Pico, just danced around it. We drove through some cow traffic (slow but scenic) up toward the mountain. Though fog blocked the summit, Lagoa do Capitao, the reflecting lake below still made for a peaceful stop and all the views were breathtaking.
The afternoon took us to Lajes, the island’s whaling town, where we had a delicious courtyard lunch at Fonte Tavern before a kayaking tour with Hominis Natura . We booked this experience with GetYourGuide and our tour operator João was amazing. During the kayaking experience, we explored a grotto and a lagoon. Unfortunately we skipped out on snorkeling due to the chilly air. Dinner was a locally-sourced sushi feast at Mar Sushi Terrace featuring Azorean barracuda and a handful of other local Atlantic fish. As the sun set, Pico emerged from the clouds just long enough for us to admire her.
Day 4: A Whale of a Send-Off & Onward to Terceira
Our final morning on Pico was a calm one. We returned to Lajes for a pastry breakfast at Pastelaria Aromas E Sabores. Then we visited a whale-watching perch—once used by spotters during the whaling days—and did a little shopping at some of the handicrafts on the island. We left with a ceramic whale tile and a ceramic bowl to remember the island by.
One of the restaurants high on our list to try was Magma, where we stopped for our final meal on the island and enjoyed a stunning view. I tried the traditional Portuguese dish Pica Pau, which translates to “woodpecker”—a nod to the way diners pick at the bite-sized pieces of fried beef or pork with toothpicks. This popular bar snack is typically served with a cold beer and features a savory gravy made from beer, garlic, oil, chili, and mustard. It’s usually accompanied by pickled carrots, cauliflower, and olives.
Before heading to the airport, we revisited Lagoa do Capitao, the lake from the foggy day before—this time with clearer skies and hoping for a better view (except Pico still played coy). As we descended the mountain, the sound of a chorus of cows mooing us off the island felt like the perfect farewell.
That evening, we touched down in Terceira and wrapped our day with stunning views at Miradouro da Serra do Cume, a scenic viewpoint, before dinner at the hotel.
Day 5: Rainy Terceira – Forts, Trenches & Tapas
Rainy mornings make for slow starts, and we welcomed it with a steak lunch at Birou Bar and a walk around Angra do Heroísmo, the UNESCO-protected capital. There, we met Vasco da Gama (well, his statue), did some light shopping, (I bought a gold bracelet with hearts and a hand painted bull), and sampled some Portuguese cookies at a bakery in town.
The sun peeked out just in time for us to explore Biscoitos a beach town with WWII trenches made of volcanic rock, then visit natural pools that were too cold for a swim but gorgeous nonetheless. We ended the afternoon atop Monte Brasil, an old volcano turned military fort, with sweeping views of the harbor and town below.
Dinner was petiscos, Portugese tapas at Taberna do Teatro, including a first for us, limpets or Azorean sea snails. They weren’t my favorite item we ate that night, but I’m glad we’re immersing ourself in local flavor.
Final Thoughts
Each island has its own vibe: Pico’s quiet majesty, Faial’s windswept edge, and Terceira’s historic charm. The Azores feel untouched in the best way possible—wild, scenic, and full of personality (and cows). If you’re looking for a trip that blends nature, culture, wine, and a little bit of volcanic drama, this corner of the Atlantic delivers.
We’ll be dreaming of red windmills, moody mountains, and that perfect glass of Pico wine for a long time. Until next time, Azores.
Our full itinerary including where we stayed is linked here.
Interested in exploring more of the Azores? We also spent a few days in Sao Miguel.
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