My Paris Travel Diary
For my 35th birthday, my wife and I decided to step away from Baltimore for a few days and escape to Paris. Honestly, I’m still floating somewhere between a buttery croissant and warm bowl of french onion soup.
Over the course of the trip, we soaked in everything from iconic landmarks and world-class museums to hidden bistros and charming neighborhoods. Here’s a peek into our adventure — part travel diary, part Paris guide, and entirely unforgettable.
Day 1: Touchdown in Paris and a Sunset on the Seine
After a long flight and a quick nap to shake off the jet lag, I finally stepped out into Paris for the first time. It was early afternoon — that perfect golden light bouncing off the Haussmann buildings — and the city felt instantly alive.
We decided to keep the first day light and easy. A short walk from our hotel led us to a cozy bistro, La Bonbonnière, where we grabbed burgers and beers for our first casual Parisian meal. From there, we wandered through a nearby garden, soaking in the mix of flowers, fountains, and chatter that seems to fill every corner of the city.
The afternoon unfolded exactly the way you hope a first day in Paris will: wandering charming streets and covered passageways, ducking into cute wine bars for a glass here and there, and popping in and out of little shops along the way.
In the early evening, we boarded a sunset cruise on the Seine, and it was pure magic. As the boat drifted beneath historic bridges and past centuries-old buildings, we watched the Eiffel Tower begin to sparkle against the night sky. We even caught a glimpse of Notre-Dame Cathedral from the water, still beautiful and resilient.
Dinner that night was at the legendary Parisian café Les Deux Magots. There was live music playing, I played a little footsie with my wife under the table, and we toasted to finally being here. It was the perfect gentle start to the trip — just enough adventure without overdoing it after a long travel day.
Day 2: Croissants, Impressionists, and Cocktails
We started the morning the proper Parisian way — at a neighborhood boulangerie, Maison Gosselin. That’s when I learned an important distinction: a boulangerie focuses on bread and croissants, while a pâtisserie is dedicated to elaborate pastries. Naturally, we ordered two (no regrets): an extra-butter croissant and a chocolate pistachio croissant that might actually be one of the best things I’ve ever eaten.
Then it was off to the Musée d’Orsay, a breathtaking former train station built for the 1900 World’s Fair. We spent hours wandering through the Impressionist galleries, completely enchanted by works from Vincent van Gogh and Claude Monet — especially Van Gogh’s Starry Night Over the Rhône.
From there we walked toward Notre-Dame Cathedral, but the line to go inside was far too long, so we pivoted to lunch at a cozy bistro nearby, on the Île Saint-Louis, Le Saint Régis. It turned out to be a great decision — the French onion soup there might have been the best I’ve ever had.
The afternoon was spent wandering through Le Marais, one of the most charming neighborhoods in Paris. We browsed little shops, explored narrow streets, and even picked out something special to bring home.
Before dinner we stopped at Little Red Door, one of the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2024. The space was dimly lit, cozy, and effortlessly cool — exactly the kind of cocktail bar you hope to stumble into in Paris.
For dinner we switched gears and went for Japanese at Kunitoraya, where we warmed up with big bowls of perfectly chewy udon. We finished the night the way any good Paris day should end: macarons in bed.
Day 3: Monet, Montmartre, and a Little Champagne
This might have been my favorite day of the trip. We started the morning at the Musée de l’Orangerie, home to Claude Monet’s massive Water Lilies paintings. The works fill two oval rooms, wrapping you in soft, dreamlike color. It’s incredibly serene — the kind of place where you lose track of time. I honestly could have stayed there all day.
From there, we made our way to the Eiffel Tower (croissant in hand, naturally), then continued on to the Arc de Triomphe, where I learned it also serves as a memorial to the Unknown Soldier.
Lunch took us up to the charming hillside neighborhood of Montmartre at La Maison Rose, an adorable pink café tucked among artists’ studios and cobblestone streets. With only about six tables, it felt wonderfully intimate. Famous artists like Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dalí used to dine there — and now I can say I have, too.
The afternoon turned into a blur of beautiful little moments. While wandering the arts district we picked up a small painting for our house, then stumbled into a lively wine festival with a parade passing through the streets. Later we made our way to Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, easily the most stunning department store I’ve ever seen. We toasted the day with a glass of champagne on the rooftop terrace, then wandered through nearby streets for a little more shopping.
By the end of the day we had walked more than nine miles, so we treated ourselves to an Uber to dinner — Paris life balance. That night we ate at Pink Mamma, an Italian spot known for its over-the-top décor and comfort food. Pro tip: definitely get the extra scoop of tiramisu.
Day 4: A Day Trip to Versailles (And 20,000 Steps)
We logged another 20,000 steps, this time exploring Palace of Versailles. Before catching the train, we stopped at Maison Kayser — a boulangerie, of course — to grab pastries and a baguette to enjoy on the ride out.
Versailles is undeniably grand, but also a bit overwhelming. If I’m being honest, if I were planning a visit to Paris, I might skip Versailles. The crowds moved like cattle through the palace rooms, and while the artwork and decor were impressive, I found myself missing the quieter corners of Paris.
The highlight of the visit ended up being the gardens. We rented a golf cart to explore the enormous grounds, which turned out to be the best decision of the day. Cruising past fountains, sculptures, and tree-lined paths made it much easier to appreciate just how vast the estate really is.
Back in Paris, we grabbed a late lunch at Bar du Central, enjoying French onion soup and fries with a view of the Eiffel Tower. Dinner that night was classic steak frites and chocolate mousse at Bistrot Camille.
One thing I still can’t get over is how easy public transit in Paris is. Between the metro, buses, and trains, getting around the city (and even out to Versailles) felt incredibly simple.
Day 5: The Last Baguette and the Louvre
Our final day in Paris began the way all perfect Paris mornings should — with coffee and croissants. This time we stopped at Merci Jérôme to start the day.
From there we visited the Grand Synagogue of Paris before wandering through several of the city’s covered passageways, charming little corridors filled with 19th-century shops and restaurants. I’m so glad we ducked into these hidden corners of the city — they felt like stepping into another era. Along the way we picked up two more small pieces of art for our home, little reminders of the trip we could bring back with us.
Lunch was Mediterranean and delicious at Dalia Paris, followed by a stop at the legendary cookware shop E. Dehillerin, a kitchen supply store that dates back to the 1800s and was famously loved by Julia Child when she lived in Paris. I had my eye on a beautiful copper pot, but practicality (and suitcase space) won out, so we settled on canelé molds instead.
The afternoon was devoted to the Louvre Museum, which can only be described as beautiful chaos. The crowd around the Mona Lisa was wild, but we also saw the French Crown Jewels just a few days before the infamous heist and Napoleon’s apartments, which were absolutely jaw-dropping. Fun fact: the Louvre itself was once the royal palace, which explains its Versailles-level grandeur.
Later we stopped for hot chocolate on a sunny patio at Les Deux Magots — the same café where we had dinner on our first night — a nice full-circle moment. We also picked up some French butter to bring home, because leaving Paris without butter somehow felt wrong.
We ended our final evening with dinner along the Seine at Café Louis Philippe, watching the city glow one last time as the lights reflected on the water.
Au Revoir, Paris
Paris was everything I hoped it would be — and somehow more. Between the croissants, the art, the wine, and the endless walks, I fell in love with the city’s rhythm. Every street felt like a postcard, every meal felt like a celebration.
Until next time, Paris. You’ve completely stolen my heart.
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Curious about my other travel diaries? I think you’d love four days in Porto or somewhere else in Europe!
I know I didn’t mention the shopping too much, but here are some of the items we bought in Paris. Not pictured, skincare from CityPharma, and two purses from RSVP – one for myself and one as a birthday gift to my mother.
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